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Ölw.-, Abschmier- u. Kerzenw.-Intervall
Verfasst: Dienstag 11. September 2012, 08:52
von Claude
Mir kann's ja wurscht sein i hab ja für den Alltag umgebaut. ::)
Für den TüV hab ich noch en originalen mit Öl :D
ABER mein English, das lässt zu wünschen übrig also Frag ich mal:
1.) wieviel Pro und wieviele Kontras
2.) warum noch ne Ölsorte zulegen und lagern?
p.s.
ach ja
http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint6.htm
Das interessiert mich besonders, hätt ich nur zu gern wörtlich verstanden ::)
Potential Problems
The first problem comes with using the wrong weight oil. Use of oil that is too light will cause the oil to be drawn beyond the filter and into the engine. Use of oil that is too heavy will not allow the oil to be drawn up far enough and much of the air cleaning surface area ends up being unused. Manufacturer owner manuals always show the oil weight that is designed for the system. Engineering of the system (we hope) will have picked just the right weight for the size of the cannister, cup, and vacuum pressure.
The second problem comes when the cup is not cleaned regularly. Manuals always recommend daily refilling of the cup and suggest even more frequent cleanings under dusty conditions. The oil may look clean in the cup but after a few hours of running but it has trapped a significant quantity of small particles many of which will be drawn back up into the cleaning surfaces. When the particles-to-oil ratio reaches a certain level, the dirt will begin to hang on (or "sludge up") on the cleaning surfaces. Eventually, instead of just clean air being sucked into the intake, you have chunks of dirt and sludge going with it. Obviously this can be quickly damaging to the engine. If your cannister is filled with sludge, clean it out before using it or it could do more harm than good.
The last problem is with radically altered machines. The oil bath is engineered for the stock engine. Radical changes to the engine mandate changes to the air cleaning system. Care should also be exercised if replacing your oil bath filter. The replacement should be similar in size and engineered capacity to the original.
Ölw.-, Abschmier- u. Kerzenw.-Intervall
Verfasst: Dienstag 11. September 2012, 09:21
von Claude
Das Öl bleibt auf jeden Fall im Gitter des Filterelementes hängen und läuft nach unten wieder zurück.
Das glaub ich nicht, nachdem ich meinen zerlegt habe weiss i ja nun wie er aufgebaut ist. ::)
Von unten her gesehen kommt ja erst das Gitter dann ca 750 Gr. grobe Stahlwolle. Die Stahlwolle vehindert, dass das 30er Öl durch den Vegaser in die Brennräume gelangt.
Ich könnt mir vorstellen dass 10er Öl einfach duch gezogen wird weil viel dünner.
p.s.
Ich hab nach em rausoperieren der Stahlwolle, vor em wegschmeissen, die selbige in Benzin gewaschen :o
Ölw.-, Abschmier- u. Kerzenw.-Intervall
Verfasst: Dienstag 11. September 2012, 16:19
von mb-jan-45
Ich möchte noch einmal auf den link verweisen.
http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=210313
Dort steht, dass das 10er Öl durch den Filter in den Vergaser gesogen wird, zumindest bei Sommertemparaturen.
Hört sich nicht wirklich gut an, ich bleibe bei dem 30er Öl.
Ölw.-, Abschmier- u. Kerzenw.-Intervall
Verfasst: Dienstag 11. September 2012, 17:43
von Claude
.......
Hört sich nicht wirklich gut an, ich bleibe bei dem 30er Öl.
Da bist du scheinbar nicht der einzige ::)
Sorry, that was a fallacy; I thought of the easier physical drag of the lighter oil, that would be easier for the engine to pull through the air; but if the lighter oil will be sucked into the carb, I will not do that.
Uwe
Ölw.-, Abschmier- u. Kerzenw.-Intervall
Verfasst: Dienstag 11. September 2012, 18:18
von DocUwe
Nun, ich hab diese Frage im g gestellt, die Antwort ist begreifbar.
Es gibt aber auch Jeepers (Wolfman), die meiner Meinung sind:
"I deal with older farm tractors that use oil bath air cleaners and the owners manuals recommend using the same oil in the oil cup on the aircleaner that is put in the engine. The oil viscisity or weight being determined by the outside air temperture.
The reason. The colder the engine on start up the longer it takes the colder, thicker oil to get through engine.
The oil bath air cleaner pulls in outside, unheated air so the colder air would make heavy weight oil thicker and resist the air from moving through the oil to the engine. Like running with the choke on. Doc's * therory.
Back to Doc's question, I run hydraulic oil in oil bath air cleaners. It is 10w oil. Not the universal transmission/hydraulic oil. Just Hydraulic oil. Never had a proplem with oil getting through to the engine and the tractors I deal with operate for long hours at high RPMs, in very dirty conditions.
The lighter oil allows the air to break up into smaller bubbles as it moves through the oil, as opposed to larger bubbles in heavier, thicker oil.
The air inside the bubble isn't filtered by the oil.
Any dust or dirt in there that does not stick to the oil in contact with the surface of the bubble will get through.
In this case, I would think smaller is better."
* Doc, damit bin ich gemeint.
Ich möchte kein 7-Gescheiter sein, aber wenn kein Öl oder Dreck im Cross-Over-Tub auftritt, nehme ich das dünnere SAE HD 10W-Öl.